Health-Conscious Dining, Travel, and Fitness Tips (tm)

Gennaro is a most welcome addition to Manhattan's Upper West Side. It arrived shortly before the release of Stanley Tucci and Campbell Scott's wonderful prizewinning film, The Big Night, and in its own way, it feels as if you've stepped into the restaurant in that movie - only on a smaller scale. They're not waiting for Louis Prima to turn the tide, however. Instead, West-siders, noted for their nose for good food, have found a hard-working, dedicated chef in Gennaro - and a friendly, small staff turning out first-rate Italian/Mediterranean homestyle cooking in a storefront on Amsterdam Avenue. The prices are low, the quality high. The dishes include one of our favorites, a grilled calamari on a bed of cous-cous, salad and avocado, mushrooms in season, five beautifully prepared pastas (we request the orechiette with sausage and broccoli rabe, not on the menu but Gennaro will happily prepare it for you), specials like grilled wild sea bass with artichokes, ossobucco with saffron risotto, grilled quails. It won't make a big dent in your pocketbook, but it will leave you looking forward to your next visit. Would you believe it, delivery is available - and Gennaro will discourage you from ordering dishes which don't travel well.

Aquagrill, 212 Spring Street (Avenue of Americas), 212-274-0505

Aquagrill is the downtown place to go for imaginatively prepared, exclusively seafood products. Our correspondent loved the salmon with falafel crust, set on a bed of hummus and surrounded with triangles of cucumber and peeled tomato. Jeremy Marshall, the chef, prepares his own breads, does a great job on simple grilled or roasted fish and veggies and provides a selection of reasonably priced wines that go well with fish. Recent visits confirm that Aquagrill is one of New York's treasures for seafood dining.

The Lenox Room, 1278 Third Avenue (73rd St.), 212-772-0404

The Lenox Room, under the aegis of Tony Fortuna and Charles Palmer is lively, chic, yet casual and serves some of the best food in New York. Our correspondents, to a man and woman, find this East Side restaurant an inviting site for a great dinner. You'll have no problem finding a heart-healthy delicious dish - or indulging, if you so wish. You can sample a variety of imaginatively prepared hors d'oeuvres, salads or the sensational tuna tartare for starters - or fresh oysters from the oyster bar. Then, a selection of beautifully prepared fish (currently, you'll find exquisite salmon, tuna, mahi-mahi and halibut, backed by vegetables and sauces that give a new meaning to the word "flavorful." Among the meat dishes, a calves liver with onion rings and potato gratin is reminiscent of Bellecour. Duckling, a special on a recent evening was moist, and served on a bed of cabbage and greens. Desserts are excellent- and the wine list offers good choice at a reasonable price quality ratio. Call ahead for reservations or hope for a cancellation.

Hudson River Club, 4 World Financial Center (250 Vesey Street), 212-786-1500

If you plan on visitting Century 21, you're a short walk from the Hudson River Club. Stop by for lunch, dinner or a drink. Marvel at the beautiful decor, the spectacular views of the Hudson River, including the Statue of Liberty and try their wonderful New American cuisine. A number of the dishes readily fall into the heart-healthy class. Its not cheap, but it is worth it. If you're a New Yorker and you're planning a special party, the facilities and friendly service are first-class.

Duane Park Cafe, 157 Duane Street (bet. Hudson and West Broadway), 212-732-5555

Duane Park Cafe is one of the less discovered dining outposts in Manhattan, one of our longstanding favorites about which our out-of-town correspondents feel equally positive. Located in Tribeca, it has built a reputation among "foodies" who have become loyal clients. Seiji Imeida, chef-proprietor has at various times been written-up for the best risottos and the best sorbets in New York. But that's not all. This Japanese gentleman, unassuming and friendly, cooks largely with olive oil and is a masterful chef. His fish dishes, pastas, Catskill trout, seared tuna, skate, veal chop and rack of lamb to name a few- are splendid. Menus change seasonally. In a recent visit we sampled a splendid risotto with cippoline onions, fresh tomatoes and cod. Four mmms. Equally delicious was the sea bass preparation and a halibut with diced tomatoes, potatoes and a blanket of herbs, including dill. Leave room for his equally innovative desserts. Duane Park's sorbets have been acclaimed among the best in New York. We like to catch some galleries in Soho on a Saturday afternoon, maybe have a beer with artist friends at the Broome Street bar- then work our way down by foot or cab to Duane Park and an early dinner. Reasonable prices for food and wine.

L'Absinthe, 227 East 67th Street, 212-794-4950

L'Absinthe has been given rave reviews by four of our correspondents. And we agree. Jean-Michel Bergougneux, lyonnais by birth, is formerly of Lutece, Le Cygne and Raphael, and is chef-owner. He puts his years of experience to work to correct the impression that french food has to be "rich" or "nouvelle cuisine" and the result is a creation that is delicious and startlingly flavorful. His broths are often based on vegetables and he has a way with herbs and flavors. The restaurant is charming, utterly french and unpretentious.Try such dishes as gnocchi with wild mushrooms, poached oysters and seaweed, cold fennel soup, marinated mackerel with vegetables, soup, marinated mackerel with vegetables, beautiful fish preparations such as red snapper in a sun-dried toato crust, sauteed monkfish with barley and carrot puree, or a poached chicken in a light truffled vegetable broth with superb flavor. The lamb, the wild bass, all were first rate. And if you're going to share a "cheat," his beaujolais saucission with lentils and potatoes is fabulous (we shared ours four ways). A good wine list and reasonably priced selections contribute to the overall experience. And desserts? The peach and rhubarb is hard to resist.

Cafe Centro, 200 Park Avenue (45th Street), 212-818-1222

Cafe Centro is one of restaurant associates newer outposts. It is modeled after the famous Paris brasserie, La Coupole, an art-deco rendedvous in the 1920's and 1930's for Hemingway, Picasso, and other Luminaries. It has been rated highly by the New York Times (two stars) and deservedly so. Chef Stephane Becht gives his cuisine a provencal or times, moroccan touch, guaranteeing that there will be dishes for the health-conscious diner, such as sea scallops provencale, oven-skillet steamed mussels, sweet potato gnocchi stuffed with green asparagus, and a balsamic dressing as well as pan-seared calamari stuffed with basil and salmon. A salmon and scallops tartare with asian dressing is particularly delightful with a glass of Muscadet or an alsatian Pinot Blanc. For main courses, consider the monkfish tagine with haricots vert, carrots, potatoes and olives, crisp skillet slamon or the sensational sauteed skate with bulgur wheat salad and tomato-basil dressing. Steaks and poultires are avilable to those who so choose. There is a first-rate wine list at moderate prices, wine by the glass, and for the beer lover, a great selection of draft beers. In fact, Cafe Centro has a beer bar as well.

Alouette, 2588 Broadway (bet. 97th and 98th St), 212- 222-6808

Alouette is a busy, bustling bistro and a welcome addition to the Upper West Side. Chantal Gin, a charming hostess, supervises an amiable staff while Kenneth Gin turns out dishes with interesting variations on the bistro theme. One evening, for appetizers, we tried their escargots, plump and flavorful, a warm goat cheese with mache salad and duck confit, beautifully served in salad. Main courses included specials of the day like a pan fried salmon (served rare as requested) over a galette of potatoes and chanterelle mushrooms, sirloin and potato and a flounder, imaginatively and tastefully prepared with white truffle oil. There is a good choice of desserts and a wine list that is solid, young and reasonably priced.

Trustees Dining Room at Metropolitan Museum of Art, 82 Street (5th Avenue), 212-570-3975

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is New York's greatest art treasure. A delightful feature of a visit to the Met on Friday and Saturday, when the museum is open late, is a pause for a drink and live classical music on the balcony. For some of us, it's a Friday tradition.

The Trustees Dining Room serves lunch Tuesday through Saturday from noon to 2:30, brunch on Sunday 11:30AM to 2:30PM and dinner Friday and Saturday, 5:30-8:15. A particular category of membership is required for admission, and members may be accompanied by guests. Reservations are required.

The modern, tastefully furnished room overlooks Central Park and serves excellent cuisine, supervised by Restaurant Associates. The endive salad with cheese and salmon tartar made refreshing appetizers, while a main course of grilled tuna, served rare, was as good as it gets. So were the Maryland crabcakes. Grouper, in a superb treatment with pineapple and mango, was a special for the evening, delicious, but a little overcooked. When we pointed this out, the manager made clear that Chef Albert Lukas would be informed. Valhrona chocolate cake, a platter of tasty berries (out of season) and vanilla sorbet made a first-rate ending to a solid dining experience. Service was top notch professional and unintrusive. The restaurant has an excellent, exceptionally well-priced wine list. The manager informed us that maintaining reasonable prices for wines allows patrons the opportunity to sample fine wines, a policy in keeping with a museum that offers only the best.

Osteria del Circo, 120 West 55th Street (bet. 6th and 7th Avenues), 212-265-3636

Osteria del Circo is a wonderful addition to the New York Italian food festival. The cuisine is Tuscan-based, and in our opinion, outstanding. Pastas, risottos and the veal dishes which we sampled were among the best we've eaten outside of Toscana. Fish preparation was equally delicious. Desserts, not ordinarily something to write home about from Italy, are above-average. The first-rate wine list could use more reasonably priced selections. Service is warm and friendly, and the circus decorations contribute to a delightful ambience. None of this should come as a surprise, because the restaurant is a creation of the family of Sirio Maccione, of Le Cirque fame. Sons and cousins hosting and serving, Mama supervising the kitchen, how could it be other than a splendid dining experience? We'll be back, eager and often.

Avenue Bistro (Jour et Nuit), 520 Columbus Avenue, 212-579-3194

Scott Campbell, formerly of Fishin' Eddies (and before that Le Cirque and Union Square Cafe), one of our favorite chefs, has opened his own restaurant- and it is a welcome addition to the Upper West Side in the 90's. Whether for a coffee and muffin in the A.M., lunch or dinner, you'll find that Scott and his enthusiastic staff provide good dining in a pleasant bistro atmosphere.

Isola, 485 Columbus Avenue (bet. 83rd and 84th Street), 212-362-7400

Underrated by the Zagat, in our opinion, this trattoria on the Upper West Side is as pleasant and friendly a casual dining experience as you will find. The food, from pizzas prepared in the wood oven, to artichokes, salads and antipasto specials as appetizers, to first-rate, well-prepared, fresh and tasty pastas and very good veal and chicken dishes, is reasonably priced. The wine list is small but adequate and again, won't bust the budget. The restaurant serves local celebrities, a lively young crowd and is child and baby-friendly as well. It's one of our favorite places for family dining and $150 has fed five.

Across the Street, 444 East 91st Street, 212-722-4000

Across the Street (across from Eli Zabar's Vinegar Factory, well worth a visit, as it gives Fairway and the original Zabar's a run for their money) is a small, bistro-style restaurant well worth a visit. In style, it could be on the Left Bank of Paris- simple and comfortable. Chef Seen Lippert creates a new, small menu each day, based on the availability of top products, provided by the Vinegar Factory. Her training with Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in Berkely is evident in a confident hand. At a recent dinner, we sampled a fresh sardine and potato terrine and a garden salad, both excellent. For a main course, three of our table-mates had the mouth-watering veal chop, perfectly prepared, and with a sauce that had us all talking. A bucatini bolognese came to th table al dente, and the sauce could have been prepared in Bologna - that good. Dessert of profiterole with toasted almond and chocolate gelato and a complimentary plate of beautiful bing cherries and superb espresso was a happy ending to a first-rate meal. One of our contributing editors, Dr. Lawrence Ossias had dined at the restaurant on several occasions, recommended it highly, and our parties experience certainly confirmed his impression. A small, well-selected wine list has reasonably priced selections from California, more expensive from France. Dinner for two will run over one hundred dollars - worth the price. Stop off at The Vinegar Factory and do some shopping before dinner. You'll enjoy the experience.

Jean-Georges, 1 Central Park West, Tel: 212-299-3900, Fax: 212-299-3914

Jean-George Vongerichten has done it again! His restaurant and bistro, Jean-Georges is a splendid dining venue. Savio, the savvy maitre d' runs a tight ship with excellent, knowledgable service in the main dining room. The food is masterfully prepared, the equal of a Michelin two-star in Paris. Our group tried such dishes as his Foie Gras, Marinated Tuna, Porcini tart, Arctic Char, Rack of Lamb, Black Sea Bass and Halibut, accompanied with bottles of St.Veran and Marsannay. The resentations were artistic and the sauces light and beautifully flavored. Desserts included Rhubard Tarts, Teppan Pineapple and Apple Confit, equally delicious. Only one caveat about dining at Jean-Georges.. Cigar smoking is permitted in the bistro (which is located in the bar area). If you don't like second-hand smoke, think twice, even though the food is excellent - and considerably less expensive than the restaurant. The bistro runs $120 for dinner for two including wine and tip, while the restaurant will set you back $200. The menus are different in each room.

Addendum:
On a recent visit, we were told that cigar smoking in the bistro was now discouraged, and there was none evident that evening.

Delphini, 519 Columbus Avenue, 212-579-1145

Delphini is a pleasant place for a casual brunch or dinner. Mediterranean style cuisine includes at brunch, Eggs Provencal, Spanish Torta and Apple Pancake. One of our correspondents tried the Paella at dinner and was delighted with the dish. Moderately priced.

Ocean Grill, 384 Columbus Avenue, 212-579-2300

Ocean Grillis a welcome addition to the Upper West Side. Crowded, lively, noisy with a shellfish bar and outstanding products it deserves better, in our opinion, than the short shrift given to it by the New York Times reviewer. We've been there half a dozen times. The service is excellent, the fish preparations imaginative, fresh and flavorful, a good wine list at reasonable prices and the young staff friendly, attractive and efficient. Steve Hansen, who owns Isabella's has done himself proud in finding Scott Cohen, a capable chef, managing a large, busy dining room with aplomb. On one occasion a grouper came overcooked. It was whisked back to the kitchen and replaced with a delicious lobster salad. Blackened swordfish, shrimp dumplings for a touch of the Asiatic, Cioppino, great steamers like Lundy's used to serve , fabulous crab cakes and excellent desserts. Lunch is served. If you don't like the noisy bustle, come at six or six thirty. Ask for the "photograph" room, its wall covered with photos of sea and seashore scenes.

Le Cirque, 455 Madison (bet. 50th and 51st St.), 212-794-9292

Le Cirque, in its new incarnation in the Palace Hotel, is a sight to behold. The magnificient (indeed palatial) main dining room has been designed with a touch of frivolity in the lighting and furniture. While arguments about the decor will continue, there is no argument about the cuisine and service. Both are impeccable, as Sirio Maccioni has moved a short distance downtown, increased his capacity, but if anything, improved his cuisine. His family is in evidence, managing the dining room with graciousness. We had a splendid dinner recently - ravioli with porcinis in a heavenly sauce, potato gnocchi with crab and broccoli rabe, rack of lamb beautifully crusted, a sensational tuna steak with chanterelle, fingerling potatoes and onion rings, perfectly prepared. The desserts were as good as they get in New York, the famous creme brulee, banana cream pastry and a chocolate dessert in which an accompanying white and black chocolate "oven", provided the sauce in dark chocolate saucepans. A 1989 Chianti Classico Riserva from Castello di Rampallo was well-priced and delicious. You'll have difficulty getting a reservation but its worth it. Expect to spend over $200 for dinner for two with wine and tip, probably closer to $250. We went for an anniversary - and it was memorable.

Bouley Bakery, Duane Street at West Broadway, 212-964-2525.

Yes, David Bouley is back, and stronger than ever in his commitment to a purity of cuisine which astounds the palate. Based on the freshest products available seasonally in the market, brilliant use of herbs and spices to bring out the inherent flavor of fish, fowl or meat, and accompanied by a panoply of homebacked breads, your meal is a small marvel. And for dessert, the warm chocolate brioche was the equal to the finest chocolate desserts we've eaten, at home or abroad. What more is there to say, except to encourage a visit for a special occasion, or if the purse is willing, more often. Dinner for two with wine and tip runs above $200.

Addendum:
A recent visit underscores the fact that raves are well-deserved. This restaurant is a New York treasure.

L'Ardoise, 1207 First Avenue (bet. 65th and 66th Streets), 212-744-4752

This small French neighborhood bistro, casual, funky, serves up a solid meal at a reasonable price. It feels Parisian despite the fact that owner and host, David hails from between Lille and the border of Belgium. In certain seasons, he'll cook with beer, typical of the region from which he comes. David, charming and witty moves through the room chatting at each table, helpfully recommending dishes and wines and concerned that his guests are pleased with their selections. There are nightly specials. The night we dined there, David suggested that we try what turned out to be the least expensive red on the list, a $20 bottle of Corbiere, which was so good that we ordered a second for the table. Prix-fixe menus at $25 and $35 or a la carte will not break the bank.

I Trulli, 122 East 27th Street, 212-481-7372

This Italian restaurant serves seriously good cuisine in a charming indoor or outdoor setting. In summer, the garden is a terrific place to enjoy your meal, and in other seasons, you can't go wrong asking for a table in the tasteful main dining room with a view of the ovens. The staff is friendly and knowledgable and Nicola, the proprietor is available to answer your questions about food or wine. The wine list is extensive, with a good balance between the greats (at substantial prices) and good, reasonable selections. We had a 1990 Notarpanaro at $18 which was a delightful accompaniment to a meal. The meal included superb dishes such as a platter of grilled octopus, calamari and cuttlefish, Sardinian dumplings (flour and saffron) with a delicious meat sauce and a sauteed sea bass (or snapper) with sun dried tomatoes and arugula. The quality is high. Expect to spend over $100 for dinner for two with wine and tip.

Picholine, 35 West 64th Street, 212-724-8585

Picholine is one of Manhattan's Upper West Side culinary prizes. Chef Terrance Brennan's Mediterranean based cuisine makes us of organic products wherever possible and a variety of dishes meet health-conscious dining standards. Among his appetizers, try the Picholine salad, fresh Marinated Sardines, Carpaccio of Tuna with vegetables escabeche and tapenade aoili, or, in season, organic heirloom tomates, the preparation for which changes daily. There are pasta entrees, entrees such as Crisp Sauteed Skate Eing with eggplant pancakes, tomato confit and aged balsamic or Tournedos of Salmon with horseradish crust, cucumber and Salmon Caviar. We particularly enjoyed the Wild Mushroom and Duck Risotto with a corn and white truffle essence. Organix Chicken is cooked "under Brick" and served with Garlic Mashed Potato Puree, Artichokes, Lemon and Spinach. Among the Salad entrees is a Seared Rare Sashimi Grade Tuna with White Bean Salad, Fennel, tomato and Basil Vinaigrette. Desserts are excellent and there is a good selection of Wines in all price ranges. Expensive, but worth it.

Addendum:
On a recent visit to Picholine, we found the restaurant extremely crowded with a back-up for tables. We waited for half an hour, observing people who came after us, known to the host, seated ahead of their turn. We pointed it out to the host who shrugged it off with, "I'm sorry." We left and went around the corner for a fine Chinese meal at Shun Lee Palace. There was no effort made on the part of the host or his assistants to make those waiting comfortable or to feel welcomed. We told the story the following night to friends who described the same experience. They walked out, too. Picholine management, take note. Bad practice which will ultimately hurt, not matter how good the food.

Vico, 1302 Madison Avenue (bet. 92nd and 93rd Streets), 212-876-2222

From the friendly welcome to the excellent professional service and first-rate Italian cuisine, Vico deserves its loyal following. Our contributors and friends have enjoyed consistently fine meals here. The wine list provides excellent selections at all price levels. Recently, we sampled a 1995 Chianti (La Massa) at $31.50. It was scrumptious, beautifully complementing a simple, delicious pasta with a pomodoro (tomato) sauce, a fresh octopus salad with green beans, followed by our favorite, their superb pounded veal chop, breaded and covered with a salad of rucola and chopped tomato. There are always fresh fish selections. Try the Orata, simply grilled, when it is available. This wonderfully flavorful fish is imported from Italy.

Rafina, 1481 York Avenue (bet. 78th and 79th Streets), 212-327-0950

This Greek seafood taverna is friendly, bustling, serves delicious, fresh fish and is reasonably priced. Can you ask for anything more? Yes. A selection of good Greek red wines at equally reasonable prices, making a nice introduction to the wines of Greece (other than the famed retsina, which many do not find to their liking). Give Rafina a try and we suspect it may well become a favorite, as one of our reliable correspondents did.

La Grolla, 413 Amsterdam Ave., between 80th and 81st Street, Tel: 212-496-0890.

A welcome addition to the Upper West Side, Ristorante La Grolla is a comfortable, pleasantly decorated storefront restaurant which will bowl you over with the quality of its Italian dishes, rooted in the cuisine of the Val d'Aoste (Alpine) region. For the health-conscious diner, begin with a Carpaccio of tuna, salmon and swordfish served with fennel salad and citrus vinaigrette, Venison Carpaccio with roasted peppers or a simple salad of mixed greens with fresh mountain herbs. For the pasta lover, there is a terrific selection from home-made Pappardelle with a wild game ragout to our favorite, an incredibly light and flavorful home-made Ravioli stuffed with greens and aromatic herbs in a walnut sauce. There's also an outstanding Risotto del giorno (one night it was an asparagus and shrimp risotto, another evening, primavera). Among the main courses, the roasted Rabbit with new potatoes is excellent- and if you eschew the diet, try the Veal Chop rolled and stuffed with Fontina cheese and Prosciutto di Parma. It's fabulous. The wines had not arrived on our first two visits so we brought our own. Service is delightful. Around $100 for two with a modest wine, once the list is available.

EQ Restaurant, 267 West 4th Street, Tel: 212-414-1961.

On the corner of West 4th and Perry Street in the heart of Greenwich Village, you will find one of the finest cuisines in New York. Dennis Foy, ex- of Mondrian, ranks with the top creative chefs. The décor is simple, comfortable and low-key elegant for a storefront restaurant. Once you overcome price-shock and a wine list which is both limited (California and West Coast almost exclusively), as well as "pricey," his French-based, American spun artistry will leave you mmm'ing. Sauces are delicate, flavorful and bring out the best in the food. The late Fred Rothberg, a superb French chef, once told us that the preparation of Sweetbreads was a test of a chef's skill and Foy makes his mark with an outstanding preparation as an appetizer. His creamless Wild Mushroom soup had one of our companions gasping with pleasure. A main course of Seared Skate with a beautifully shaped dab of Ossetra caviar was among the best we've ever tasted. Similarly with the Turbot dish. Rabbit was imaginatively turned out. And a Rib-Eye Steak was as great as our efficient, pleasant server promised, making one forgive the $39 price tag. The Pomme puree which accompanied several of the main courses was as good as Robuchon's. What more can one say than that? We drank a pleasant Pinot Noir from California, Au Bon Climate 1997 at $39. Most of the wines on the list are very young and expensive, so order with care. As for desserts, we tried two. The Black Currant Tea ice cream was divine- we almost asked for seconds. And the Chocolate Royale, shared by all, was outstanding. So there you are. Sensational food and great service. Be prepared for the bill, even with a modest wine. For us, it was $170 per couple with tax and tip, one appetizer and one dessert per couple and as mentioned, a modest wine. Please EQ, do something about the wine list. Such fabulous cuisine deserves better. Our three star rating is given in spite of this serious limitation.

March, 405 East 58th Street (between First Avenue and Sutton Place), New York, N.Y. Tel: 212-754-6272.

Reserve well in advance.

When the dining stars are given out, March is always near the top of the list, and rightly so. Chef Wayne Nish has provided consistent, superb cuisine for many years in this elegant and romantic East Side townhouse. The staff, inspired by Wayne's cuisine and the wine selections of Joseph Scalice, the chef's partner in the pursuit of dining perfection, is knowledgable, helpful and warm. While dining there recently, we heard a woman at a nearby table, requesting special preparations owing to dietary needs. These were met with graciously by the staff- and that is a good example of what you can expect. The sixty-eight dollar prix-fixe dinner offers a wide and wonderful selection from which you choose three dishes and a dessert plate. The portions are perfect-size so that you are satisfied and sated but not stuffed at the close of the meal. Nish's preparations are imaginative, with a use of herbs, spices, wines and sauces that are revelations. Recently, we sampled dishes as the Lobster carpaccio with caviar and fish roes, Hamachi of tuna the likes of which you may have matched but not exceeded at Nobu, Chilean sea bass with a sauce of poached vidalia onions, bringing out the flavor of the fish and complementing it with a sweetness and complexity that had us convinced there must be other herbs and spices, Poussin with smoked peaches and pomegranate sauce, rare Duck breast slices and confit of Duck. Desserts are as interesting as the plates, and for an extra five dollars, try a tasting of any three. There are a few specials each night (the Poussin was one) and have a look at the Beggar's Purses, if you want something special as a starter. The house champagne, a Bollinger, is a special cuvee and a very nice way to commence. We had a half-bottle of 1996 Macon Clesse and a 1995 Fernand-Vergelesse, each reasonably priced and a pleasant accompaniment to a splendid meal. The dessert selection is large. For a romantic evening, or just an evening of superb dining, try March.

Tocqueville, 15 East 15th Street, Tel: 212-647-1515, Fax: 212-647-7148.

There’s a special treat awaiting the discerning diner at this attractive, warm and welcoming restaurant: a fabulous dining experience. The chef-owner is Marco Moreira, trained in French cuisine and practicing his métier in Rio, before bringing it to New York. He has a deft, creative hand with his dishes, be they meat, fish or fowl, and a way of pairing them with vegetables and herbs which will leave you ooh-ing and ah-ing. The chef’s lovely wife, Jo-Ann manages the dining room with charm and great skill. Our recent meat at Tocqueville was the finest we’ve had in New York in several years, and comparable to a Parisian Michelin two-star dining experience. You’ll find desserts the equal in interest and quality of appetizers and main courses. There is a very good wine list, but it needs beefing up with a better selection of moderately priced wines. We solved the problem by drinking a 1989 Rioja Riserva (a great vintage at a reasonable price). Word of mouth is spreading, so get down there soon.

Esca, 402 West 43rd Street, 212-564-7272

The Babbo team of Batali and Bastianich have done it again. With a great find in a chef, David Pasternack (David goes deep-sea fishing on his off-days, bringing his catch in for the Esca kitchen) and a very convenient location on the edge of the theatre district, Esca has become, like Babbo, one of the toughest tickets in town. Make your reservation well in advance. The restaurant is comfortable, unpretentious and serves a simple, elegantly prepared Italian seafood, which will blow you away. Pasternack knows how to extract the flavor from the fish, never overwhelming it with sauce. Esca’s menu includes “crudo”, simply garnished, like sashimi, but unique, and changing daily. Then, there are pastas like the maccheroni a la chitarra (sea urchin and crabmeat), so good that we order it every time we’re at Esca, to revisit that mouth-watering combination of flavors. Desserts do not disappoint. The wine list offers selections from various regions of Italy. Try the Bastianich white from the Veneto. It’s forty-eight dollars a bottle, but of exceptional quality. We also drank a 1997 Barbera d’Asti which was a treat.

Rughetta, 347 East 85th Street, Tel: 517-3118

This friendly Roman-inspired restaurant will surprise you with the quality of its preparations and its modest prices. Try the Carciofi alla Romana, Fried Calamari, the Bucatini all’Amatriciana (hard to find in New York) or other excellent pastas, the excellent Costoletta di Vitella Rughetta (veal chop pounded and breaded, very thin, topped with tomato salad), or the Baccala (cod) dolla Nonna (black olive, capers and onions in tomato sauce). The wine list is a bit thin, but hopefully, you’ll find a Chianti from the spectacular 1997 vintage, or a good Pinot Grigio, if you prefer white. They deliver on the East Side or prepare Take-Out (keep in mind that some dishes travel better than others). Rughetta is well worth a visit.

Medi, 45 Rockefeller Plaza (at 50th Street); Tel:212-399-8888.

This comfortable and attractive restaurant, opened Summer 2001 is an exciting newcomer to the New York dining scene. Roger Verge, chef and owner of Moulin de Mougins, known to "foodies" everywhere has stepped into New York in an interesting collaboration with Roberto Ruggieri of the Bice group. The food is thus Franco-Italian, ranging from the Cote d'Azur and Provencal across the border to Liguria and Tuscany. The dishes are beautifully prepared, many of them meeting the criteria for health-conscious dining (roast fish, vegetables, herbs) and a terrific selection of tasty pastas. There is bouillabaisse and a fritto alla fiorentiana (lightly fried zucchini, eggplant, pepper, onion, shrimp and squid served with two sauces, spicy tomato and aioli. One portion, which two shared, was enough to serve four as an appetizer and leave room for main courses. Desserts are basic but tasty. By the time you reach dessert, mixed berries with basil and lavender syrup may be all you can manage. The wine list needs greater depth and range in the mid-range. It could benefit greatly from the addition of 1997's from Piemonte and Tuscany, including the wonderful Barberas and Chiantis.

Fresh, 105 Reade Street, NY 10013, Tel: 212-406-1900

This “new kid on the Soho block” lives up to its name. Excellent seafood, well-prepared in an attractive setting, a youthful, enthusiastic staff and a downtown crowd. Chef Eric Tevrow provides the diner with an opportunity for excellent health-conscious choices with fish that he steams in kelp(any of the seafood may be steamed upon request). It will be difficult, however, to resist other wonderful dishes. Among the appetizers are Ipswich fried claims, as good as any we’ve eaten in New England, crisyp quail and fried cod tongues, roasted halibut cheeks and seared foie gras, a great clam chowder, rillettes of arcadian gaspy cod and finnan haddie and New England lobster roll, to name a few. Tevrow is masterful at pairing unusual combinations as well as calling to our attention parts of the fish anatomy usually disregarded in the United States (i.e., cheeks and tongue). His main courses range from a wonderful roasted nova scotia lobster with chanterelles, brussel sprouts, corn, fingerling potatoes-a kind of “clambake” without the clams. The roasted prime rib of swordfish with potato puree, creamed spinach and crispy onions is a winner, as is the bouillabaisse setoise. For the loner at the table who needs his or her fix of meat, there is the grilled NY strip (and shrimp for good measure). The dessert selection is plentiful and had our guests murmuring with delight. If you’re looking for a downtown venue and love interesting and out-of-the-ordinary fish and fish preparations, Fresh awaits your pleasure.

Marseille, 44th and 9th Avenue, New York NY 10036

This bustling, attractive restaurant serving first-rate bistro cuisine has only one serious flaw (which we are well aware other find an advantage): a high noise level. The food was well-prepared-chopped salad, a fish meze, bouillabaisse, halibut, seafood burger, grilled swordfish and a chocolate steamed cake-all delicious. A selection of reasonably priced wines and good service round out the picture.

Nobu, 105 Hudson Street, NY 10013, Tel: 212-219-0500

Nobu needs no introduction. It is no longer just a restaurant. Nobu is an institution, located not only in Los Angeles and New York, but in Las Vegas, Paris, London and a number of other cities (coming soon to your town? You can hope so). Lunch affords an excellent opportunity to obtain a reservation less than weeks in advance. Recently, we found ourselves there with a near-last minute reservation and pleased with our good fortune. We shared wonderfully fresh sashimi (toro, yellowtail and sea urchin), a delicious soft shell crab roll, some sea urchin tempura, a sashimi salad (tuna) and one of Nobu’s signature dishes, of which we never tire, black cod miso. Kirin light was our beverage. We floated out with a manageable bill, looking forward to our next visit. Be aware that Nobu Next Door offers the same brilliant food without reservations-and for an early dinner, no waiting, it’s a great bet. Of course, you’ll miss the celebs next door, but if it’s the Japanese-Peruvian cuisine that you’re looking for, you can’t go wrong. As of this writing, if you’re a downtowner, you probably know that Next Door offers take-out. How about that?

Neo Sushi, 2298 Broadway (83rd Street), NY 10024, Tel:212-769-1003

Some call it a “Nobu uptown”. In fact, the cuisine is excellent, with top quality fresh fish and unusual preparations. Our table sampled Kumoto oysters, chu toro and hamachi (terrific), lobster mango, “flying” octopus, crabmeat, grilled fish, miso cod reminiscent of Nobu’s, shrimp tempura, squid, scallop, baby and wild yellowtail. Each was impeccably prepared. Reservations are not too difficult to come by but don’t count on walking in without one. The space is comfortable, if a bit mundane, the prices quite high and many have commented that portions are on the small side. That said, you won’t be disappointed in the cuisine.

Luca, 1712 First Avenue (bet. 88th and 89th Street), NY 10128, Tel: 212-987-9260

In this popular Upper East Side Italian restaurant, Luca Marcato, the warm, talented owner-chef places his stamp on both ambience and cuisine. His wine list is personal, well-chosen with many reasonably priced selections. His food, whether a pasta dish, a salmon wrapped in potato crust, Cornish hen or meat is prepared simply and with care. Desserts such as tiramisu or caramel custard are classics and perfectly prepared. There is a three-course prix-fixe menu at $20 (appetizer, main course and dessert), one of the biggest bargains in town in terms of price/quality ratio. It’s clear that Luca has found a winning-formula that keeps them coming back for more, as shall we.

AIX, 2398 Broadway at 88th Street, New York, NY 10024, Tel: 212-874-7400; Fax: 212-874-7643

This newcomer to the Upper West Side is an imaginative creation of beautiful spaces on two levels. The management, under the careful tutelage of Keith Treyball keeps the pleasant red-shirted waiters on their toes, informative, efficient and unobtrusive. The colorful banquettes, rugs, and high ceilings provide an ambience in which you can enjoy a civilized conversation. The food, a play on Provencal offers such appetizers as a flavorful tomato tart, beautifully presented crabmeat cannelloni and a basis brochette shrimp accompanied by a zucchini and radicchio salad-well prepared, excellent flavors. Among the main courses, the salmon was perfect, medium rare as requested and the chicken crispy, served with artichokes and mushrooms. The squab, a specialty of the chef, was medium rare, plentiful and covered a bed of chestnut, apple and polenta, a very interesting and appealing combination. A creative drinks menu is available, along with a nice selection of wines, diverse and reasonably priced. The sommelier is particularly helpful. The restaurant is an elegant addition to this area of the city.

(Reviewed by Dr. L.A.)

Amma, 246 East 51st Street New York, NY 10022, Tel: 212-644-8330; Fax: 212-644-8250;

Amma means mother. In this family-run business, Mr. & Mrs. Sharma make you feel as if you’re in their South India home. We’ve been to this charming small restaurant with many colorful banquettes and a very good noise level.

For starters, you are presented with a dosa made of rice and lentil in place of the usual papridam. A kebab platter has chicken and lamb cooked several ways. South India is famous for its unique vegetarian style. The okra with spices and potatoes can be a separate dish or as a side order with the main course. The whole cauliflower baked in spices was another we ate. Both vegetarian dishes were beautifully presented, perfectly seasoned and delicious, a pleasant change from Tandoori dishes.

The chicken cooked in spinach was outstanding, succulent and perfectly seasoned. The lamb shank in onions, spices and tomatoes provided more than an adequate amount of lamb, very tasty and mild. We’ve eaten several shrimp dishes - one jumbo shrimps with curry leaves and, from the Tandoor, jumbo shrimp marinated in rare spices.

Vegetable dishes are 17 dollars and main courses always served with naan, salad and a vegetable. Homemade Indian ice cream is a specialty dessert for $4.95.

This new restaurant offers one a different palate that we are not used to. I’m all for the South.

(reviewed by Dr. L.A.)

Acqua, 718 Amsterdam Avenue (94th and 95th Street) Tel: 212-222-2752

A very pleasant trattoria, with an interesting, reasonably-priced menu, excellent food preparation and friendly service. We’ve enjoyed the appetizers, from a variety of salads, shrimp and crabmeat on skewers and steamed mussels. First-rate pastas—we love the bucatini con sarde (sardines) and the rigatoni pomodoro and trennete carbonara were equally well received. Among the fish dishes, the orata is excellent, and we’ve repeated on the vitello Acqua- breaded veal cutlet pounded thin, covered with a salad of arugala and chopped tomato. Wines by the glass include a crisp Pinot Grigio and a delicious vino rosso from Sicily. There is bar service as well. We’ll be regulars.

Be advised that the restaurant is not "child-friendly" to younger children. There are no high-chairs or booster seats available on the premises, nor did the manager show any interest in providing them in the future.

La Mirabelle, 102 West 86th St (off Columbus Ave.), Tel: 212-496-0458

A neighborhood jewel, this small bistro draws a regular clientele, steadily complemented by those fortunate enough to make its acquaintance and discover its virtues. From proprietor to staff, the welcome is warm, the service friendly and professional, and occasionally, the charming and multi-talented, Danielle (her skillful oil paintings are among those that adorn the walls) breaks into song. The food is first-rate. Enjoy a delicious endive salad, Portobello mushrooms or well-prepared sautéed chicken livers among the starters. In addition to a menu of entrees steeped in French tradition, each night offers a different special. Our favorite is the Friday night Bouillabaise, about as good as that dish gets, here or in France. The wine list is small, with reasonably priced selections. Available by the glass as well the bottle. Be sure to make a reservation as it does get busy, particularly on the weekend.

Nice Matin, 201 West 79th Street (corner of Amsterdam Avenue), Tel: 212-873-6423

Mediterranean France cuisine is creatively represented in this attractive, bustling addition to the Upper West Side’s steadily improving food scene. Chef Andy D’Amico and sous-chef Tim Reardon are delivering big-time. You’ll find delicious appetizers such as leeks vinaigrette, roasted beets with goat cheese, sardine farci and most recently a superb tuna tartare on a bed of greens with a quail egg atop. Merguez sausage, poached mussels or an endive salad are also great starters. Move on to such entrees as braised rabbit ravioli, grilled leg of lamb, or specials each night (on Friday, try the rouget in a bouillabaisse broth)--or, any night, the 5-napkin burger with sautéed onions and cheese and fabulous frites. About as good as it gets. Desserts prepared by pastry chef Mick Morgenstern are top of the line as well. One cold winter night, we found comfort in a tarte tatin with raisin armagnac ice cream. It ranked with our favorite in Paris. The sommelier, Guy Goldstein is charming, highly knowledgeable and has put together a first-rate international wine list. There is an excellent selection of wines by the glass, with specials nightly. Guy will be happy to discuss your selection. Waiters and waitresses (like Julia) are friendly, enthusiastic and know their “stuff”. Be advised, there is a busy bar scene and it can get noisy at times. For us, the food, ambience and service is ample compensation. If you are very sensitive to noise, ask for a table toward the rear when making your reservation. And be sure to make that reservation, as demand is high and growing! Open for brunch, lunch and dinner.

Compass, 208 West 70th Street (between Amsterdam and West End Avenues), Tel: 212-875-8600

Another West Side winner, just down the block from Café Luxembourg (still going strong), this beautifully designed restaurant is extremely appealing, both visually and in terms of its cuisine. We’ve tried a variety of dishes, appetizer to dessert, fish to fowl, and found the preparations original, delicious and never fussy. Point your compass in the direction of this restaurant and you won’t be disappointed. Excellent wine list.

Matsuri, in the Maritime Hotel, 363 West 16th Street, Tel: 212-243-6400.

This new restaurant (late 2003) is one of New York’s most beautiful rooms. On two levels, it will take your breath away. Fortunately, the Japanese cuisine of chef Tadashi Ono lives up to the exquisite premises. Sample a variety of his small dishes, from the cold Kobe beef (4 yums) to two kinds of delicious eel (we had an eel tempura), shrimp squid, yellowtail yuzu, vegetable tempura, silver sardines braised with plums, salmon and lotus root or terrific chicken yakitori. Move on to the Black Cod, marinated in sake and reminiscent in quality and flavor to that of Nobu. Sample a side of the 18 grain rice with your Cod. You can get delicious sushis, standard or “special” served with unusual toppings. Desserts are more interesting than those you would ordinarily find in Japanese restaurants. A fine selection of sakes are available as well.

S’Agapo Taverna, 34-21 34th Avenue, Astoria, NY 11106, Tel./ Fax: 718-626-0303.

S’Agapo Taverna in Astoria is a great find within a short distance on the Queens side of the Triborough Bridge. A charming Greek family from Crete oversees the kitchen and cleint satisfaction.

Octopus grilled and basted with rosemary is a wonderful starter. Baby smelt tossed in flour and panfried, stuffed grape leaves were very well prepared. Each order, which could easily feed four, was between $10 and $12. A large Greek salad was fresh with excellent feta cheese.

Fish, grilled and perfectly prepared, is served with vegetable, potato, or rice pilaf ($19 per serving). Classical desserts were fresh and excellent.

Inexpensive Greek wines can be purchased by carafe or bottle.

The menu emphasizes dishes typical of Crete, and it is one of the best in Astoria. A lovely outdoor garden works very well for a long season.

(L.A)

Giovanni Venticinque, 25 East 83rd Street (bt. 5th and Madison Avenues), New York, NY 10028, Tel: 212-988-7300.

A small, intimate restaurant with good acoustics down the block from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, it offers a fine post-museum lunch or dinner. The ambience is warm, and best of all, not noisy. One can actually talk with friends and guests. The maitre d’ and waiters are friendly as well.

Toasted bread with oil and spices (assuming you are not doing rigorous low-carb) is a very good accompaniment to a well-made ample cocktail. Salad is nicely presented. Try the excellent house vinaigrette. Pastas are particularly good. A pappardelle with mushrooms had a wonderful aroma, a variety of mushrooms and unlike many others, a light (non-cream) sauce. I tried linguini in squid ink topped with seafood (mussels, clams if you choose, abundant lobster, shrimp and calamri). Well-prepared and very tasty.

There is a varied selection of desserts with excellent sorbets. It is medium priced for New York these days.

(LA)

Peasant, 194 Elizabeth Street, New York, NY 10012, Tel: 212-965-9511

A recently opened friendly warm Italian restaurant is located in NOLITA. This restaurant has a wonderful oven in which al forno dishes, including boutique pizzas, are prepared.

An anchovy salad was fresh and properly spiced. The sardines from the oven were fresh and perfectly cooked. A rarely available pasta in New York is thin spaghetti a la bottarga – a specialty of Sicily, was as good as it gets. Quail was cooked to medium rare, served with spinach and was excellent. Grilled orata was an ample serving and well cooked.

The wine list includes a good selection of whites from Sardinia, Friuli, Veneto and Alto Adige. The red wine list is more extensive and includes those from Abruzzo, Emilia Romagna, Piemonte, Toscany, and Umbria. Affordable to expensive.

Appetizers $8-12; pizzas $10-12; and entrees $20-24.

The service is good and courteous, but slow. The decor is inviting and the noise level quite good, if you want conversation. This is a nice addition to downtown Italian dining.

(LA)

Zeytin, 519 Columbus Avenue (at West 85th Street), New York, NY 10024, Tel: 212-579-1145

After many disappointing years, the corner of West 85th and Columbus Avenue at last has a winner in a restaurant, and the West Side is welcoming it. Zeytin has been open for only three months at this writing and the word is out. The comfortable, attractive restaurant is bustling from early evening on. The greeting is warm, service is friendly (Zihni was our waiter recently and we enjoyed “talking Turkey” with him—the country and the food preparation). But bottom line, the food is absolutely delicious—and reasonably priced. We’ve become regulars and those whom we’ve introduced to the restaurant feel the same. The food is light and flavorful, beautifully prepared and presented. By now we’ve tried most of the appetizers, salads and quite a few of the main courses. You can make a meal of the appetizers. Recently, we shared four (Tarama, Mucver—oven baked zucchini and dill pancakes served with homemade yogurt, Soslu patlican—spicy fried eggplant mashed and tossed with garlic, lemon juice and olive oil, and Kalamar Tava—crispy calamari serviced with a light garlic, walnut sauce). All were delicious. The lightly breaded and crisped calamari is the best that that we have ever eaten! We then shared a grilled daurade (spectacularly flavorful), accompanied by salad. Other appetizers that we have enjoyed include, Humus, Grilled octopus and Fava bean puree. The selection of salads is very interesting and fresh. Main courses that we’ve enjoyed include Kefte Kebab (Turkish beef patty with rice and herbs, Levrek Bulgama (Filet of Chilean Sea Bass steamed with chopped tomatoes, parsley, lemons and served with rice and vegetables), Izgara Bildircin Sarma (grilled, marinated, boneless quail wrapped in grape leaves), Boneless brook trout with shaved almonds and lemons. Chicken dishes and Lamb dishes (shank and slices of grilled lamb) are also available. There are nightly specials in appetizers and main courses, full bar service (they make a great extra dry martini and are the only restaurant we’ve found that has Level, Absoluts new premium vodka). The wine list could use upgrading and selection of wines by the glass is small. We bring our own wine and pay a corkage charge. After several visits in which we resisted desserts, we recently tasted two: the slightly melted halvah is utterly mouth-watering--and the Turkish version of baklava (honey and crushed nuts in phyllo dough) is equally outstanding.

Happy dining at Zeytin!

Alto, 520 Madison Avenue (53 between 5th & Madison), New York, NY, Tel: 212-308-1099

After a short stroll through Paley Park ( a vest-pocket park), you enter Scott Conant’s latest effort, Alto. Scott earned his first three stars in this newsletter for the dazzling cuisine at L’Impero, still going strong. Alto is named for the Alto Adige, a region of Italy near the Austrian border. The influence of this region is reflected in an attractive, quiet environment for dining. A lit wall of wine bottles is both beautiful and soothing. Gray banquettes, tall candelabra and flowing white curtains give one the sense of privacy.

A price-fixed menu at $72 offers four courses. A variety of amuse bouche are served nightly. A seven-course tasting menu is available at $115.

The appetizers offered up include smoked ocean trout with chickpeas and parsley root vinaigrette.; a house cured venison carpaccio with apples, ramps and juniper; foie gras, smoked and cold, as well as warm lobster, with a squid ink cappuccino. This master chef does some wonderful plays on “crudo” as well (it’s been described as Italian sushi).

You’ll feast upon such dishes as gnocchi with rabbit, the eel glazed with balsamic vinegar and agnolotti with parmigiano foam, organic carrots and baby mushrooms. For main courses, consider baby turbot with truffle, lemon and anchovy; sturgeon with baby cabbage and lobster gnocchi; squab with baby turnips, lentils, spring vegetables and polenta. All are beautifully presented, innovative and seasoned with active imagination to perfection.

The dessert menus offered a delectable variety of chocolate, fruit, cheeses, gelato and sorbets. The house concludes your meal with cookies and chocolates to accompany your coffee or tea. There is an excellent selection of wines from modest to spectacular, with a number from the Alto Adige. A $35 corkage fee is available for the first bottle of wine should you choose to bring one of your favorites.

This upscale, tasteful setting provides a luminous background for Scott Conant to shine once more as a star of creative cuisine.

(L.A.)

Geisha, 33 East 61st (Between Madison and Park), New York, NY 10021, Tel: 212-813-1113

After being greeted by one or another of several beautiful hostesses, make your way to the sushi bar in the rear of the restaurant. You’ll pass a crowded, lively and attractive bar scene At the sushi bar (there are comfortable tables in the room as well) Kazuo Yoshida, Sushi Chef, wields his tools and imagination to produce outstanding, fresh sashimi and imaginative, delicious sushi. Consider beginning your meal with the finest fish tartare to be found in New York, a Spanish-mackerel tartare topped with wasabi and tiny roe, flecked with scallion and coriander. It is absolutely mouth-watering. In fact, one reviewer proclaimed it a “Best Dish” last year. Or, if it is on the menu of specials try the three kinds of yellowtail as sashimi. If you’re seeking a quieter, more romantic scene, ask for a table in the second floor dining room designed by David Rockwell. Geisha is fortunate to have not only fabulous sushi and sashimi, but a menu where East meets West, under the baton of Chef Michael Vernon (whose pedigree includes Le Bernardin). Those in your dinner party less enamoured of sushi than we obviously are, will find appetizer portions of mussels in a curry and lime broth, shrimp lollipops, or plays on tempura. As main courses, the selection includes rack of lamb, roast lobster, halibut, cod and skate, to name a few. These dishes are as good as they get, perfectly prepared and subtly flavored with Asian herbs, fruits and spices. A good selection of saki, cocktails and wine are readily at hand from the busy bar. Desserts are up to snuff, whether you try panna cotta, pot de crème or an imaginative Japanese mille-feuille. Once you’ve dined at Geisha, the only question you’ll have is “when are we coming back?”

Destino, 891 First Avenue (51st Street), New York, NY 10021, Tel: 212-751-0700

It’s not a big surprise that Destino appears destined to hit a home run in the New York restaurant league, right off the bat. The provenance is clear: Mario Curko, who was the chef at Rao’s, is in front of the ovens. His son, Anthony, whom we knew for many moons as a waiter at Rao’s, learned his lessons well re playing host from Frank Pellegrino and Joe Chichone. The décor is very tasteful, the seating comfortable and the ceiling mural unexpected and beautifully rendered. The menu was reminiscent of Rao’s, with old reliables such as the baked clams, seafood salad, pasta with broccoli rabe and sausage (cabbage is coming soon) and veal parmigiana. The meatballs were winners. When we get past those staples on future visits, we expect to find some new treats. Full bar service, a nice selection of well-priced wines, and to our delight, martini’s that would make Nick the Vest proud. Credit cards accepted. Make your reservation soon. They’ll be busting down the doors for reservations.

Bottega del Vino, 7 East 59th Street, Tel: 212-223-3028

How lucky can we get on the border of Manhattan’s Upper East Side and Midtown? This offspring of Verona’s famed trattoria is building a solid following with casual dining up front and solid Northern Italian cuisine in the warm and attractive interior. We’ve dined there often and never been disappointed. The special risottos are invariably excellent, with the rich risotto prepared with Amarone extraordinary; the fegato (liver) is as good as it gets, a variety of pastas are perfectly prepared and the veal Milanese, when available is exceptional. A recent dinner special was cingalie (wild boar chops)—and it was merely sensational. Desserts include house gelatos and cheesecake which get three yums. The wine list goes on and on, with great selections in all price ranges. Check out the wide selection of wines by the glass posted above the bar. We recently sampled a 1995 Ponimo (Sangiovese-Pinot Noir-Merlot combo by Frescobaldi) a buy at $12 per glass. Try a pairing menu, specialty dishes and wines to complement each course.

Chola, 232 East 58th Street, New York, NY 10022, Tel: 212-688-4619

We returned from a trip to India with a taste for mildly spiced Indian food and Chola was our first try. The restaurant is attractive, the service friendly and efficient and prices are reasonable. Lunch is a particular bargain. Food can be ordered to taste: from mild to spicy. The use of spices is creative and reflects the Southern Indian origins of the cuisine. We found Kingfisher beer, an import from India and an excellent choice with the cuisine. Particularly tasty dishes were the Chicken Chutney Wala, Saag Paneer (cheese made of soy with spinach sauce), Lemon rice, Paneer Naan (bread) and the Dal (yellow or black lentils). Ginger madness for dessert and an excellent cappuccino capped off the meal.

Lisca, 660 Amsterdam Avenue (92nd-93rd Str.), New York, NY 10025, Tel: 212-799-3987; Fax: 212-799-3988

One year ago, an Italian restaurant run by Hadi Alavian opened on the Upper west side. The noise level is excellent for conversation, the ambience low key, the personnel accommodating, and the food excellent.

We enjoyed the Polpetti, baby octopus grilled with black chick peas, the chef’s special. The breaded and roasted calamari are plentiful and served with arugula and roasted tomatoes. The prices for the antipasti ranged from 9 to 14 dollars.

The pastas are all home-made. Specials for $18 included a first-ratelobster ravioli topped with a broccoli puree. The shrimp pesto and white truffle butter Garganelli was excellent. Rigatoni with hot and sweet sausage, green peas and pink sauce was yet another toothy and tasty dish. Pappardelle with mushroom, caramelized onions, goat cheese and herbs met the taste challenge as well. These pastas ranged in price from 12 to 15 dollars.

Main courses are well-prepared and attractively presented: fish, chicken, veal, seafood, and an ossobuco. Prices range from 16 to 28 dollars.

Salads are available from 8 to 11 dollars.

Desserts include an excellent cheesecake or tarts.

Wines by the glass are 8 to 12 dollars. White wines include the typical Pinot Grigio, Gavi di Gavi, and Greco di Tufo, with prices from 32 to 45 dollars. Reds go for as little as $32 to Brunello di Montalcino for $79. The proprietor also has a selection of Tuscan wines which range from 42 to 65 dollars.

This quite friendly restaurant offers the West Side a not-too-costly venuee for lunch or dinner.

(Reviewed by Dr. L.A.)

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, New York, Four Seasons Hotel, 57 East 57th Street, Tel: 212-758-5700;

www.fourseasons.com

Robuchon has done it again! We described the first L’Atelier in Paris as “the world’s first three-star diner”. The concept has taken hold with openings in Tokyo, Las Vegas and most recently in London and New York (September ’06). The restaurant in New York has the usual counter service, where the diner can observe the goings-on in the kitchen, converse with companions and, if so inclined, make new friends of “counter-mates.” There are ten or so tables as well. The high-ceiling setting of the room is beautiful and the design by Pierre-Yves Rochon fits the setting attractively and unobtrusively. Then, of course, there is the cuisine. Yosuke Suga, who worked with “le maitre” in Paris, is Executive Chef—and he executes superbly. There are the tried and true plates that we know and love so well from Paris (a gazpacho like no other, bass sautéed with citronelle stuffed with leeks, caramelized quail with foie gras, steak tartare, sweetbreads, frogs legs, tuna tartare, to name a few). Many dishes are available in tasting portions, or full orders. Then there are new creations, such as game, in season, and a recent succulent lobster dish. The desserts prepared by Chef Narita are a visual feast and outstanding. At a recent dinner, we sampled the “chocolat noir”, a play on dark chocolate, and “le Sucre” a “golden globe,” filled with sweet treasure. The wine list is extensive and expensive, with a good selection by the glass. Our favorite, introduced to us by Antoine Hernandez at the Paris counter, is the Gigondas from Domaine Raspail d’Ay, available by the glass or the bottle. The service is outstanding, under Michael Bonsor’s steady baton. Expect to spend $250 or more per couple with modest wines, or more should you go for high-end selections. Reservations are available only at the 6PM sitting. Thereafter, await your turn (but the bar of the Four Season is only a few steps away and a pleasant place to do the waiting).